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Bespoke - Made to your measurements, requires accurate measurements and fittings. A pattern is
produced to your measurements from which a calico toile is made for your first fitting. Two or
three further fittings may be required depending on the garment. This usually applies to frock coats,
corseted dresses etc. Corsets have their own rules, please see the page on corsetry.
Made to Measure - his applies to shirts, corset belts, waistcoats and other unfitted garments made for you in off the peg sizes but with some allowance for personal requirement, either in sizing, fabrics or trimmings.
For example, if you are very tall an 'off the peg' shirt will be too short in the arm and body for you,
so your shirt will be made for you, to your measurements.
Off the Peg – Most of my garments fall into the two categories above, however I do have a
growing range of 'Off the Peg' items. These are garments made to 'set' measurements ie size 10, 12
etc (ladies) or 38, 42 etc (gents).
Unsure? The best thing to do is contact me.
Many factors contribute to authentic costume, all of which have to be taken into account. If you are
joining a re-enacting group or society it's a good idea to get to know what they expect of new
members. I have heard of some that expect new people to join in the bottom ranks and work their
way up the social ladder with time.
You also have to understand that many items of authentic costume are closely fitted, much more so
than we are used to now. They can have awkward ways of fastening, which mean you will need
help dressing, or are cut very differently to our modern clothing, which can feel 'odd' and
restricting.
If you feel that you need some concessions to modern life, these can usually be accommodated. My
partner, for example, holds up his mediaeval hose with braces! Not authentic, but as no one can
see them.... Sometimes you may have to change/dress by yourself, so a back lacing dress may not be the best idea!
Points to consider for your Authentic costume...
Date - There are many ways of categorising costumes and the reign of a monarch is often used.
This does give a quick idea of what an item of clothing will look like, however, while most
members of the public understand 'Victorian', many are lost with much earlier monarchs and
although most manage to envisage a 'mediaeval' dress, chances are it will be a pastiche of 200 years
of dress, with perhaps a little Hollywood thrown in!
Nor does fashion change overnight with the death of one ruler and the coming of another.
Monarchs who had a long rule can have had many changes within that time, Victoria being a good
example. Dresses at the start of her reign bear little resemblance to those at the end.
I have used Monarchs (as a quick reference point) and dates to categorise garments on this site.
When ordering, please be as specific as you can. If you want a dress from 1892, then feel free to
say so! If you are unsure what you need, contact me.
Generation - has a bearing as new fashions are eagerly accepted by the young, whilst the older
generations cling doggedly to the fashion of their youth. Thus there is an overlap of fashions, some
quite striking.
Class – is possibly the most important aspect of period costume, from the sumptury laws of early
times to the vastly differing status of the aristocracy and the working classes. The gentry would
always be at the cutting edge of fashion, whilst the poorer classes could be a several years behind.
Cut – The shape and position of sleeves and collars, the shape of bodices and skirts. One could
make a garment from a modern dressmaking pattern and, if made in a correct fabric and trimmed
appropriately, it may look the part but it wouldn't stand up to re-enactment standards.
Fabrics – Using the appropriate weaves, textures and fibres is important in authentic costume.
Natural fibres (silk, cotton, linen, hemp etc) are also far better to work with and generally care for.
Some man-made fabrics these days are good imitations of natural fibres, but rarely behave like
natural fabrics in the way they hang, crease etc.
Construction – How garments are actually put together, not just stitching but use of facings (quite
a modern idea), linings and padding etc. Although first invented in 1790, the sewing machine as we
know it was not patented until 1850 and was not really in general use until about 1860. Before this
garments were made entirely by hand.
This not only makes a difference to the look of the stitching but machine stitching makes a seam
quite hard and will effect the way a fabric drapes and hangs. I can make garments by hand, but
most people are happy for garments to be made so that there is no visible machine stitching and
unless otherwise stated this is my standard method.
Underwear – Ladies cannot achieve a correct silhouette without the appropriate underwear. This
will be at least a pair of stays or a corset. Various cage and roll underskirts will probably be needed
through to chemise and drawers.
Here there are few limitations, no list of what you can or cannot have.... I am happy to make any
garment in any fabric and although most of my fantasy garments are based on historical patterns,
that doesn't have to be the case and you should be able to have what your little heart desires.
I am happy to make anything for anyone for any event. Mummers, Goths, Theatricals, Cloggers, Dancers, Morris Men, T.V's can all be catered for. Outfits for weddings and parties etc etc..... as long as you want it well made!
There are literally 1000's of different fabrics and trimmings out there, just waiting to be discovered
and used. I have put links to the fabric companies which I deal with. You can look on their sites at
fabrics and some will send out samples to the public. This also means you see the up to date
collection. However, they are wholesalers, you will not be able to buy from them direct and the
prices will not be on show on the sites. They may tell you the cost with samples sent, please be
aware that some of these companies fabrics are very costly.
www.bennett-silks.co.uk
www.henrybertrand.co.uk
www.james-hare.com
I have also put links to sites which do sell to the public, some of which are in the USA. With these
it's up to you whether I order the fabric for you, or you buy it yourself.
Please note that sites in the USA still sell fabric in yards not metres. Don't under order!!
www.durantextiles.com/index.asp
http://buyfabricsonline.com
www.hyenaproductions.com
www.housefabric.com
I also have a lot of fabric in stock, mostly remnants and end of line items. Pictures of this and other
trims and lace to follow.
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