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The Victorians took corsetry to it's pinnacle in both cutting and construction. They began simply
enough but soon became more complicated with more and more panels and gussets but, oddly, with
less boning. Regardless, the ultimate aim was to create a small waist.
There are so many styles of “Victorian” corsets, from short bodied ribbon cinchers to long line 'S'
curve corsets. It's impossible to show them all here, but all usually have a steel busk front
fastening, (which first appeared in 1829 with the spoon busk appearing in 1873) with a lace at the
back, which fastens at the waist. It is quite realistic to remove 2 inches from your waist without any
discomfort, 4 inches is possible with a little determination. More than that is really only possible if
you have a voluptuous figure or are willing to wear corsets most of the time.
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Construction of Corset
Victorian corsets tend to be more delicate in construction than earlier ones, relying on clever pattern
cutting and seaming to mould the figure. The boning is spiral steel, which is very flexible and
strong. This allows it to bend in two directions, following the contours of the body in and out and
from side to side. As the corset developed patterns became more complicated with many panels
and gussets making up the design. This sometimes reduce the boning needed to a very minimum,
with heavy cording taking the place of steel.
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Eyelets are two part steel but hand worked eyelets over steel rings are also available.
I usually use three layers of fabric, courtil being the main one as a strong, non stretch fabric, with a
fancy top fabric, with the stitching for the bone channels stitched through all the layers. However,
much will depend on the style you choose and what kind of control you require.
Please also see Wearing Corset page.
Prices
Full over bust corsets start at £120.00. Shorter ribbon and cincher types start at about £60.00.
Much will depend on the fabrics, level of decoration and how much boning you require. Corsets shown here. Cream paisley silk with purple silk binding. Moderate boning. £180. Black and gold man-made brocade with black silk tafita. Extra boning £220. |
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