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Around 1730 the cut of stays began to evolve and have a slightly more sophisticated cut. The shape
and posture of the Georgian figure was similar to that of the Elizabethan era, but the body length
was not so exaggerated. Boning was still heavy to begin with, but the quantity of boning slowly
reduced through the century until the corset practically disappeared in 1800.
Authentic stays have the shoulder straps set quite far out on the shoulders to encourage a very
upright posture, which often lead to Georgian ladies' shoulder blades touching! This feature can be
adapted for modern ladies.
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Usually the stays had tabs at the waist. These helped to support the skirt, give a smooth line and
prevented the bones digging into the waist.
Lacing was usually at the back only, but front lacing does appear.
These stays are a good choice for those who, like me, are challenged in the bust department!
They are also more comfortable to wear than the Victorian corsets as they don't change the body
shape quite so drastically.
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Construction of Stays
Original stays tended to use quite stiff, heavy fabrics like canvas and sometimes leather, as well as
the boning to control the figure. Sometimes a softer fabric would be used to line the stays. The
stitching for the boning channels is then worked through all the layers, although on very fine stays
the outer fabric may be put on as a separate layer to cover the stitching.
I use three layers of fabric, usually two of canvas with a top fabric of your choice. I sometimes use
courtil as the lining fabric. Although this is not authentic for stays, it is a great twill weave, non
stretch fabric usually used in Victorian corsets. It provides strength and stability as well as being
pleasanter against the skin if you choose to wear your stays without anything under them. But you
can dictate what you have.
Eyelets are two part steel but hand worked eyelets over steel rings are also available.
Imitation whalebone is used throughout, with steel used along the centre back. A busk of steel or
wood is placed centre front. If you have front fastening stays, steel will be used either side of the
lace eyelets. How much boning you have is up to you. Mostly people have what are called half
boned or demi-baline stays. These are quite sturdy and will control most figures. However, fully
boned or baleiné stays are available. Please contact me to discuss.
See also Wearing Corset page.
Prices
Stays start at £150. Much will depend on the fabrics, level of decoration and how much boning
you require and if you need front lacing. Stays pictured - special commission in pink silk dupion, hand bound in cream silk. Moderate boning, front and back lacking. £240.
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